Eat at Trokay. Innovative cuisine punctuates the menu at Trokay, featuring the creations of chefs and owners John and Nyna Weatherson, New York transplants that have brought their culinary skills to Truckee.
Eating at Trokay is an “event,” as general manager Roxy put it. This is not a place for a quick bite, but somewhere where you want to linger over a divine meal, savoring every morsel. The menu features a four-course, prix-fixe menu or a 10-coure Chef’s Tasting menu, which usually takes about 3 hours. There’s a full vegetarian menu for both offerings, and diners may choose just to enjoy a few a la carte selections.
Barbara Keck and I enjoyed several courses during our recent visit to highlight the menu selections and the culinary talents of the staff (there’s even a separate pastry kitchen upstairs). And, every dish is like a work of art.
Hors d’oeuvres arrived first served in a Tiffin box with mini buttermilk biscuits and mini pastries filled with gruyere served with a tomato, thyme and red miso jelly that was divine. The Southern-style biscuits were delectable and are featured on the lunch menu.
Our first course featured the Cucumber Gazpacho and the Baby Heirloom Beets. The gazpacho was punctuated with delicate flavors served with watermelon radish and a caraway crème. The beets were divine (and beautiful) with a candied walnut vinaigrette and Redwood Hill Farm chevre.
The Cauliflower and Sea Urchin Veloute featured a crispy tat soi (a spinach mustard) with ponzu sauce and a lemon confit. The White Asparagus from Provence that I dived into featured local morel mushrooms, red frisee and Moutard D’Orleans.
I devoured my couscous served with roasted piquillo peppers, golden raisins, a pine nut wafer and Castelvetrano olives. Yum, yum. The Berkshire Pork Belly, which I’ve seen on more menus lately, was the best preparation that Barbara said that she’s enjoyed. It was served with pineapple, yacon (a root vegetable from the Central Andes) and a pinot noir sauce.
Dessert was an event in itself with Pistachio Gelato served with a lemon balm, fresh apricot, blackberry coulis and a Phyllo crisp. The gluten-free Guanaja Chocolate Marquise was to die for served with rhubarb, strawberry, vanilla bavarois and a marshmallow brûlée.
Be sure to order some coffee prepared tableside in a siphon pot with Blue Bottle Coffee. A siphon pot looks like it belongs in a chemistry lab, but makes amazing coffee. We enjoyed our brews with another dessert course of mini peanut butter cookies and petit fours.
There were even more courses of delights for us that we enjoyed that night, but there’s not enough space to mention all of the wonderful dishes at Trokay. You’ll have to discover them for yourself.
Trokay is open Friday to Tuesday with brunch and lunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and dinner at 5 p.m. Reservations are highly suggested for dinner. For details, call (530) 582-1040 or visit restauranttrokay.com.
By Katherine E. Hill